Switzerland’s Vineyards Offer Peak Performance

Ask most people for their opinion on Swiss wine and it’s likely you will be greeted by blank expressions. The reasons for its lack of familiarity outside its native country are multiple, the main one being cost. Swiss wine is expensive. If you were to compare it to other central European countries gaining our attention in recent years, such as Austria, Slovakia, and Hungary, you would understand why it is not yet in people’s cellars. Swiss wines are typically artisan products, produced on an exceedingly small scale, often from vineyards with difficult terrains to manage. Only a tiny amount – roughly one to two per cent of its production - is exported. Not that this concerns the Swiss; they can happily consume their entire production themselves. My interest in these wines dates back to the early eighties when I was living on the shores of Lake Geneva. Knowing next to nothing about wine, I could see that it was very much a way of life for the Swiss. Forty years on, its vinous offerings are so much richer in diversity.

Late last year, 67 Pall Mall played host to a tasting of Swiss wines, which demonstrated the distinctive styles available, and which remain largely unknown to most UK wine drinkers. Based on the stylistic breadth of wines showcased at this tasting, I would suggest they are well worth seeking out for their diversity, with many indigenous, rare grape varieties, and winemaking styles. The Swiss are known for their attention to quality in everything from cheese to chocolate to watches, which combined with their reputation for precision engineering, behoves them as a nation to produce high-quality wine.

Switzerland is a small country, yet every canton produces wine. To provide a framework for its diversity, Switzerland is broken down into seven wine-producing regions, spanning the French-, German- and Italian-speaking sectors. The steep terraced vineyards of Lavaux overlooking Lake Geneva are perhaps the most familiar sight to outsiders and are a protected UNESCO World Heritage Site. Lausanne, which lies just a few kilometres distant, is the Swiss Wine Capital. Switzerland produces 100m litres of wine annually and has over 250 grape varieties in its portfolio. Many of these are international varieties; others are indigenous to Switzerland. Names such as Petite Arvine, Gamaret and Completer would only add to the bewilderment of outsiders.

Overall, Switzerland produces more reds than whites, with Pinot Noir as the principal grape variety, followed by the white Chasselas. The lesser-known white Petite Arvine, which is long established in the Valais, is an interesting variety. Late ripening, with complex fruit aromas and blessed with high acidity, wines from this grape have excellent ageing potential. By contrast, the canton of Vaud is responsible for crisp, dry white wines from the Chasselas grape (known as Fendant in the Valais). This is the wine typically on offer on warm, sunny days on the shores of Lake Geneva, but oddly, also to accompany speciality dishes such as fondue and raclette. Red wine is considered unsuited to melted cheese dishes, while beer or very cold drinks are thought to be responsible for causing ‘cheese ball’, a painful condition for the uninitiated. With its role as molten cheese-partner firmly established, there is a lot of Chasselas to be found in the country.

Native, international, and varietal crosses co-exist in Switzerland’s vineyards, where the ability to produce an array of grape varieties – from those that thrive in cooler climates, such as Blauburgunder (Pinot Noir) – to Syrah and Merlot, is testament to the range of growing conditions in this small country. Lakes and rivers have a moderating effect on temperature which, along with the influence of the warm Föhn wind, orientation of slopes, and altitude, provide a number of micro-climates. Visperterminen, with its vines at 1150 metres above sea level, means Switzerland can lay claim to Europe’s highest vineyard. It is here that the Savagnin Blanc grape thrives, a variety many will associate with wines produced in the Jura, France’s smallest wine-producing region that is gaining prominence for its idiosyncratic wines.

History and tradition abound in Switzerland’s winemaking regions. There is evidence of viticulture dating back to Roman times, and the ancestry of the white Completer grape, which is believed to be native to the Grisons, can be traced back to the Benedictine monks in the 1300s. This rare grape, also known as Malansertrauber, is a full-bodied and aromatic variety, its origins unknown. At one time almost extinct, its revival in the Grisons has become a passion for the producers who recognise its inherent qualities. The wines are often deliberately oxidative in style, but where the grape is produced according to traditional methods, it shows minerality, with aromas of tropical fruit, dairy, pastry, and vanilla.

Donatsch Pinot Noir (available from Howard Ripley Wines)

In this German-speaking region, one family’s domaine is achieving excellence with its single vineyard wines, producing both indigenous and international grape varieties. The Donatsch winery was established in 1897 and is now in the hands of the fifth generation of winemakers. The latest family member at the helm is Martin Donatsch, who has introduced pioneering winemaking practices in his winery. Like so many young winemakers, he honed his skills through working vintages abroad, in the southern hemisphere as well as Europe. Inspired by burgundian winemaking, Donatsch looks to Burgundy for his oak barrels, which he sources from the famous barrel makers, Francois Frères, treating his individual cuvées to varying levels of oak influence. He likens the results to burgundies, with their hierarchy of village, premier cru, and grand cru wines. Having twice won the title of ‘World Champion Pinot Noir Producer’, I can’t help thinking it is just a matter of time for Swiss wine.

A delightful way to familiarise oneself with the brimming diversity of the country’s wines is to go there. Travelling by train from Paris, the TGV passes through breathtaking scenery in under four hours. To enhance the experience further, in-seat catering includes a wine list offering both Swiss and French wines in every category, familiarising the traveller with its appellations as they go. Most tourists visit during the skiing season, but for non-skiers, the walking trails through the vineyards are delightful at any time of year, while for the gourmand, there is an abundance of Michelin-starred restaurants to choose from. Even a visit to a more modest restaurant to sample the local Fendant or Gamay, served in carafes according to how many ‘deci’ you can comfortably drink, is an experience not to be missed. Sometimes poured into a tiny, straight-sided glass, depicting a colourful cantonal badge, and holding just 0.7dl, this is a fine example of Swiss precision. These wines might be simple, but the views, whatever the size of your glass, will be unsurpassed.

Some highlights tasted in the UK (trade and retail listings)

Petite Arvine 2023, Domaine Jean-René Germanier

Valais AOC. Alpine Wines

Cornalin Réserve 2022, Domaine Jean-René Germanier

Valais AOC. Alpine Wines

Petite Arvine 2022, Les Celliers de Vétroz

Valais AOC. Origin Wine Ltd

Amigne 2022, Les Celliers de Vétroz

Valais AOC. Origin Wine Ltd

Concerto 2021, Les Celliers de Vétroz

Valais AOC

Blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot

Origin Wine Ltd

Pinot Noir le Petit 2022, Weingut Roman Hermann

Graubunden AOC

Completer 2023, Weingut Roman Hermann

Graubunden AOC

Additional UK stockists of Swiss wine:

The Wine Society

Fine + Rare

Howard Ripley

Aldi

Shrine to the Vine