This week’s press and trade tasting of wines of the Rhône, coming as it did so soon after Anna Spooner’s exploration of the region’s lesser-known bottles at 67 Pall Mall, was a second opportunity to try some wines from the Rhône Valley’s hierarchy of offerings. A long-time fan of wines from this region (which is the second largest for wine production in France), I was hoping for some new discoveries and to expand my enthusiasm beyond the cru level wines, particularly those from the Northern Rhône.
With more length than breadth, the Rhône gives us a wide variety of wines and styles from its myriad grape varieties, soils, and weather systems, and is something of a barometer for the effects of climate change. Recent years have given the region elevated summer temperatures, wet autumns, mild winters, dry springs and late frosts, which have led to challenges for wine producers that are as varied as they are unpredictable.
In a nutshell, 2020 saw varying yields, but with some beautiful wines produced. In 2021, there was quality across the board for all wine styles; 2022 is the year the experts and collectors are raving about, and 2023 is considered a great blending vintage.
Wines were compared and contrasted according to their AOC, their vintage and blend of grapes. Many producers were seeking representation in the UK, the second highest export market after Belgium, and it struck me just how tough it must be to compete in such a crowded market if your name isn’t known. As a short cut, I tried selecting wines based on the reputation of their distributors, where they had one, using their greater expertise as a filter in this crowded field. Sadly, far from throwing up surprises, the event turned out to be one that spoke more of the producers than the AOCs, with some really stunning examples from the likes of Ogier, Delas Frères, Jaboulet and Voge. Needless to say, these were also the higher priced offerings. So, no real discoveries made, and while getting no closer to trimming my wine-buying budget, I am at least thankful to be the consumer rather than the producer.